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ST. THOMAS, UNITED STATES VIRGIN ISLANDS:

AN AMERICAN & CARIBBEAN DIVING PARADISE

With apologies to Mark Twain, the rumors of St. Thomas's demise were grossly exaggerated. Though Hurricane Marilyn ravaged St. Thomas, the island has quickly recovered. It's now an even better dive destination above and below the surface.

When Christopher Columbus sailed into what would become the United States Virgin Islands in 1493, he "discovered" a Caribbean (and, centuries later, American) paradise that he could not have known would also be discovered by 20th century scuba divers. Today, islands like St. Thomas are a paradise for modern-day dive travel adventurers.

St. Thomas makes for a perfect dive vacation destination. Clear and calm conditions, dozens of interesting dive sites, many experienced dive operators, a variety of accommodations, and lots of Caribbean culture make St. Thomas a dive destination Columbus could never have imagined.

Vacationing in St. Thomas is popular for good reason. Sandy beaches, a wide range of resorts, sightseeing, shopping, watersports, and much more attract sun-starved vacationers from around the world.

The weather, water, and diving also attract many sun-starved divers. Year-round air temperatures usually average around 75 Fahrenheit/24 Centigrade, though it can be a bit warmer in the summer. Trade winds keep things comfortable and a general lack of a rainy season makes St. Thomas quite popular all year.

St. Thomas and the rest of the United States Virgin Islands are also quite convenient. Frequent direct service from the U.S., flights from the Caribbean hub in Puerto Rico, and frequent inter-island flights make getting to (and around) the islands easy. Once there, a quick check of the passport allows entry (U.S. and Canadian citizens can get by with a valid birth certificate or voter's registration card). It's also easy to spend money (in dollars) and to communicate (in English).

HISTORY

The history of St. Thomas is a colorful cultural cornucopia. The island was inhabited by people long before Columbus "discovered" the islands in 1493. Columbus found the shape of the islands to his liking and named them the Virgin Islands, after Ursula and her 11,000 virgins.

Before Columbus, archaeological research reveals that Indians migrated north in canoes from South America and lived on the islands as early as 710 BC. The islands supported a small population of Arawak Indians around AD 300 until Carib Indians pursued and enslaved the Arawaks. Columbus skirmished with the Caribs off St. Croix in 1493, but found St. John and St. Thomas uninhabited.

In 1650, the English on St. Croix were ousted by the Spanish, who were ousted by the French that same year. In 1653, St. Croix was ceded to the Knights of Malta, which was later sold to the French.

No lasting settlements were in place until the 1720s. Lucrative sugar cane cultivation convinced the Danes to take formal possession of St. John and St. Thomas. They raised Danish colors in 1718 and thereby established the first permanent European settlement in the islands.

The rich trade in the islands attracted many pirates, including Blackbeard and Captain Kidd. They attacked hundreds of ships carrying goods and treasure to fast-growing area.

Denmark purchased St. Croix in 1733 and the Virgin Islands stayed under Danish rule for many years. By that same year, virtually all of St. John was taken up by 109 cane and cotton plantations. The plantations had many slaves from West Africa, many who were of tribal nobility and former slave owners. They revolted in 1733, leading to a bloody island-wide massacre of many families.

The 1848 emancipation of slaves was one of many factors leading to the decline of the plantation economy. The population dropped dramatically and by the early-20th century subsistence farming, cattle, and bay rum production were the main industries.

The U.S. purchased the islands in 1917 and tourism started in earnest in the 1930s. Since then, St. Thomas has developed into one of the Caribbean's most popular resort and cruise destinations.

GEOGRAPHY

Lush and mountainous St. Thomas lies approximately 1,100 miles/1760 kilometers southeast of Miami in the area where the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean meet. The island is situated just 70 miles/110 kilometers to the west of Puerto Rico. St. Thomas is 33 square miles/105 square kilometers in size and ranges in geography from the urban capital of Charlotte Amalie to the rolling or steep hills elsewhere on the island. The highest elevation is at about 1,500 feet/450 meters on Crown Mountain.

This diverse island includes tropical forests, unusual wildlife, wildflowers, awe-inspiring views, breathtaking beaches, underwater wonders, and much more. The land and waters of the island combine to make it a geographic gem in the Caribbean.

The natural world of St. Thomas has undergone many dramatic changes. Forests were almost completely cleared in the 1700s and 1800s for farming and development. Foreign trees and shrubs invaded the native forest and no sizable original stands were left by the early-1900s. Animals were also imported by man and some, like the mongoose, had devastating effects (they ate the eggs of ground-nesting birds and sea turtles).

The island's variety of more than 800 species of plants includes the teyer palm, which is St. Thomas's only native palm tree; the bay rum tree, whose aromatic leaves once provided the oil for the world-famous bay rum cologne; and rare, brilliantly-colored wild orchids.

Parts of St. Thomas are a sanctuary for animals as diverse as corals, sea turtles, and reef fish; insect- and fish-eating bats; frogs; gecko, anole, and iguana lizards; and lots of birds. More than 20 species of tropical birds breed on the island, including the bananaquit, the black, parrot-like smooth-billed ani, and Caribbean hummingbirds. Many birds seen in the continental U.S. in the summer spend their winters on and around St. Thomas.

St. Thomas's beaches are among the most beautiful in the world. Stretches of beach along offer incredible opportunities for exploration and relaxation. If you're looking for the perfect beach, St. Thomas has many possibilities. Among the best are Bluebeard's Beach, Bolongo Bay, Coki Beach, Hull Bay, Limetree Beach, Magens Bay, Morningstar Beach, and Sapphire Beach.

Sandpipers and other shorebirds visit the beaches and the water's edge in search of small crabs, mollusks, and other burrowing sea creatures. Sea turtles spend most of their lives in the sea, but do come ashore on St. Thomas to lay eggs.

Mangrove communities can be found on St. Thomas, bridging the gap between terrestrial and marine ecosystems. Red mangroves, with their distinctive prop roots, lie in shoreline sections where reefs or bays provide protection from waves. Undersea meadows of seagrass beds are also found in these calmer waters.

The mangroves are typically encrusted with a colorful assortment of algae, tunicates, sponges, anemones, hydroids, barnacles, and oysters. The seagrass beds are full of turtle grass and manatee grass, providing food for sea turtles, fish, and sea urchins. Sea cucumbers, batfish, spotted eagle rays, goldspotted eels, and queen conch can often be found in these areas.

The waters around St. Thomas are filled with a variety of coral, fish, and other sea life. St. John outfitters have made the geography easy to enjoy by offering snorkeling, diving, sea kayaking, boating, and many other possibilities.

THE DIVING

The diving off St. Thomas is as good as ever, with Hurricane Marilyn causing little permanent damage. If anything, St. Thomas just got better and different.

"The diving's okay in St. Thomas, we just didn't have many divers right after the hurricane," says Sea Trade's Jim McManus. "We never stopped diving. There was hardly any damage to the reefs. It's better diving than before."

The conditions for diving are generally uniform for St. Thomas diving. The warm water is usually about 80 Fahrenheit/27 Centigrade. Though exposure protection is generally not needed, divers planning multiple dives may want to wear a light wetsuit or shorty.

In The Diving and Snorkeling Guide to the U.S. Virgin Islands (Gulf Publishing, 800-231-6275), Susanne and Stuart Cummings write, "Beginner and experienced divers will find an ample selection of suitable opportunities with some of the best sites around St. Thomas being 30-foot-deep reefs located within 20 minutes by boat."

St. Thomas is definitely the busiest Virgin Island above the surface and the convenient dive sites also make the island popular underwater. St. John, offering a totally different island experience, is close enough to offer many of the same dive sites as big sister St. Thomas. It also makes for an easy day trip for diving and other exploration.

Many of the most popular dive sites lie between or near St. John and St. Thomas. One of the most popular dives with operators on both islands is Tunnels at Thatch Cay. This varied dive, which averages about 40 feet/12 meters, features several arches, tunnels, colorful coral, and ambient light creating magically lit scenery.

Just three miles northeast of St. John, Congo Cay offers a fairly simple dive, with lots of marine life and orange tubastrea that can make for a brightly colored night dive. Nearby, Carvel Rock provides a more advanced dive site amidst stunning soft coral.

The other popular dive site conveniently situated between the two islands is the Wreck of the Major General Rogers. Sunk by the Department of Planning and Natural Resources in 1972, this artificial reef sits in 40 to 65 feet/12 to 20 meters of water and is constantly busy with fish and coral.

Farther afield, about 2 1/2 miles/4 1/2 kilometers south of St. Thomas, Capella Island and the Wreck of the Cartanser Senior nearby feature two excellent dive sites. The southside of Capella Island was damaged during Hurricane Hugo in 1989, but the coral has quickly recovered and the dive offers quite clear conditions. The Wreck of the Cartanser Senior is ideal for a first wreck dive, with comfortable conditions and lots to see.

Even farther afield, more experienced divers in-the-know head for French Cap Cay. Great visibility, deep ledges, and a 40 foot/12 meter pinnacle make the diving around French Cap Cay spectacular. To the southwest of St. Thomas, the southeast reef off Saba Island is an ideal destination when you have tried many of the other popular St. Thomas/St. John dives.

Grass Cay is another popular choice, with typically excellent conditions and easy diving. From huge sea fans to pretty coral formations, Grass Cay provides the perfect introduction to St. Thomas diving.

The Ledges of Little St. James, named for the island and the numerous ledges, features a large number of overhangs that are packed with coral life. The depth and visibility of this site make it an ideal and popular night dive.

Located off southeast St. Thomas, Cow and Calf Rocks are the two largest rocks that break the surface and they supposedly look like humpback whales (a cow and her calf). This site features plenty of caves, tunnels, arches, and ledges for detailed exploration. They are all alive with coral and fish, making for an interesting and relatively easy dive.

Situated southwest of St. Thomas's airport, the 300-foot WIT Shoal is one of the finer artificial reefs around, with five decks to explore and a colorful marine life that is swept in by the often fierce currents. On a good day, USVI diving doesn't get much better than this.

St. Thomas also offers some of the best snorkeling (and shore dives) in the Caribbean. Coki Beach is a great place for snorkeling or training dives in the early-morning or -evening. Other popular snorkeling spots include Hull Bay, Long Point, Magens Bay, and Smith Bay

If one operator doesn't offer a certain dive, another operator or the other island will. Several operators also offer full-day dive trips to the famed Wreck of the Rhone. If you're not planning on visit to the quiet British Virgin Islands, this is a great way to dive one of the world's most popular wreck dives.

ON LAND

One of the beauties of a visit to St. Thomas is that there's so much (or so little) to do when you're not diving. Whether it's relaxing on the beach or exploring the local culture, it's simply a matter of pursuing your particular interests.

St. Thomas is a bustling and busy island, but it's easy to explore many aspects of its varied landscape. With very few exceptions, everything on the island is open and has completely recovered from Hurricane Marilyn.

Charlotte Amalie is the perfect place to begin an exploration of St. Thomas. The Visitor Information Center, located in Emancipation Square, is the place to start a walking tour of Charlotte Amalie or get information about sightseeing throughout the island.

Fort Christian is one of many Charlotte Amalie highlights. This national landmark was built during the 17th century and is the island's oldest building. It has been used for many things over the years and several of the dungeon rooms are now used for a museum of USVI history, with free admission. You can send postcards from the city's post office nearby, but you should also take a look at the pretty murals painted by Stephen Dohanos, a Saturday Evening Post artist.

Follow the walking tour to the famed 99 Steps. Though your legs will reveal there are are more than 99 steps, a walk up this staircase is a walk up one of the city's oldest "streets."

The steep steps will lead you to Government House. This is the official residence of the governor of the USVI. The first floor's exhibits and murals are open to the public, while a second floor visit must be arranged by calling 774-0001. The second floor includes several small paintings by Camille Pisarro, who was born in Charlotte Amalie.

Also located above the city, Blackbeard's Castle offers one of the best views in St. Thomas. The tower is said to have been used by the pirate Edward Teach.

Back in town, be sure to go inside the Synagogue of Beracha Veshalom Vegmiluth Hasidim (Congregation of Blessing, Peace, and Loving Deeds). If you only visit one place in Charlotte Amalie, make it this synagogue. Located at 15 Crystal Gade, it opened in 1833 and is the second oldest synagogue in the Western Hemisphere (Curacao's is the oldest) and the oldest synagogue building in continuous use under the American flag. The sand floor and dark mahogany make the interior one of the most dramatic indoor sights in the Caribbean.

If you like the flavor of local markets, Market Square is a great place to wander and wonder at the sights and smells. You'll find vendors of all types, from fresh exotic fruits and vegetables to local herbs and spices.

The winding road east out of Charlotte Amalie leads past many beautiful resorts and vistas, finally reaching the booming hamlet of Red Hook, which serves as the main ferry dock for St. John. Some shopping and dining have also sprouted here.

Tillet's Gardens provides a wonderful contrast to shopping in Charlotte Amalie. This local artists' gallery features a wide variety of work, including the colorful silk-screens of the namesake Tillet. The maps are particularly popular. There is also a restaurant and bar in the cool courtyard area.

If you're looking for an unusual way to spend a couple of hours in the outdoors, Estate St. Peter Greathouse Botanical Gardens is is a great choice. Situated prettily on the edge of a mountain, the gardens offer a nature trail with hundred of tropical trees, plants, and colorful flowers. Inside the greathouse, you'll find the work of local artists. The friendly staff members make this a wonderful excursion.

Drake's Seat is a famous overlook that marks the spot from which Sir Francis Drake watched movements in the area. The view to the east is of the BVI and Drake's Passage, with a pretty view of Magens Bay (one of the prettiest beaches in the entire Caribbean) and Mahogany Run to the east. The best time to visit for pictures and peace is in the late-afternoon or early evening.

Offering another spectacular view, Mountain Top claims to have invented the banana daiquiri, but they've definitely inherited a classic Caribbean view.

If you want to shop until you drop, St. Thomas is one of the top spots in the Caribbean. The great prices and duty-free status have made St. Thomas and the rest of the USVI a shopping haven.

The options include local art, jewelry, china, linens, liquor, and much more. The hundreds of shops along Waterfront, Main, and Back Streets are packed with merchandise. Other possibilities include the cute alleys in between the major streets, Vendors Plaza, and Havensight Mall out at the cruise ship dock. Further afield, Tillet's Gardens offers a wide variety of local art.

All of this shopping and sightseeing will probably make you hungry and thirsty. On the food and drink front, St. Thomas is as varied as ever. From hamburgers to fine French cuisine, you find the fare you like in St. Thomas. Charlotte Amalie as a wide range of restaurants and cuisines, while the rest of the island features excellent resort restaurants and popular local joints like Eunice's Terrace. If your idea of apres-dive enjoyment is a cold drink by the water, there are plenty of lively spots on St. Thomas for a cold drink and evening entertainment.

With all of shopping, sightseeing, dining, culture, and resort amenities, you may think you won't have enough time for St. Thomas diving. But once you see this underwater paradise, you'll make room for everything above and below sea level in St. Thomas.

FACTS & FIGURES

Population: 48,166

Size: Roughly 13 by 4 miles/ by 21 by 6 kilometers (31 square miles/50 square kilometers)

Climate: Year-round temperatures range in the mid-80sF/high-20sC.

Language: English.

Money: U.S. dollar. (Many banks have branches and 24-hour ATMs.)

Telephone: Area code 809; Information 913; Emergency 911 service.

Transportation: Rental cars are readily available, as are metered taxis. Most hotels can arrange bus tours. There is generally good public transportation throughout St. Thomas.

Entry Requirements: None for U.S. citizens, valid passports for others.

Water Temperature: Varies from 78-84F/25-29C.

Underwater Visibility: Ranges from 30 feet/9 meters to more than 100 feet/30 meters,

depending on the location and weather conditions.

Hyperbaric Facilities: St. Thomas Hospital, (809) 776-8311, ext. 2226.

Dive Boats: All dive boats in St. Thomas must be operated in accordance with U.S. Coast Guard regulations, and licensing of captains applies. Most dive boats do not carry emergency oxygen.

More Diving Information: For more information on diving, order a copy of The Diving and Snorkeling Guide to the U.S. Virgin Islands (Gulf Publishing, 800-231-6275).

More About St. Thomas and the United States Virgin Islands: For more information, call (800) 372-USVI. You may also want to visit the United States Virgin Islands Internet site on the World Wide Web at http://www.usvi.net/.