Interline Adventures....

YOUR KEYS TO FLORIDA ECOTRAVEL:

THE FLORIDA KEYS

When famed U.S. writer John Dos Passos rode a train down through the Florida Keys to fabled Key West in the 1920s, he described the trip to his friend Ernest Hemingway as "one of the most exhilarating experiences of my life." The Florida Keys scenery can do that to you.

The Florida Keys are the Caribbean islands of the Sunshine State and one of the nation's premier destinations for ecotravelers. They are your keys to a great outdoors getaway.

Ecotourism has become a buzzword throughout the U.S., but its basic precepts--the planned management and preservation of natural resources through the economics of tourism--date back to the early-1960s, when the Florida Keys became a popular subtropical environmental destination.

Ecotourism activities in the Keys range from scuba diving on living coral reefs to spying on rare bird species that rest on remote islands, kayaking in serene backwaters, and hiking among divergent tropical flora within dense hammocks.

Though it's only 45 minutes by airplane from Miami to Key West, visitors who fly miss one of America's great motor odysseys. The Overseas Highway, often called "The Highway that Goes to Sea," is a modern engineering wonder. It is a driver's magic carpet ride through the Keys, carrying autos from Florida's mainland across countless coral and limestone islets through this special world all the way to Key West.

The highway--the southernmost leg of famed U.S. 1--follows a trail originally blazed in 1912 when Henry Flagler extended his Florida East Coast Railroad from Miami to Key West. The railroad ceased operations on this link in 1935, but this highway of 113 miles of roadway and 42 overseas bridges replaced it in 1938. Though the Overseas Highway can be traveled in less than four hours, much more time is needed to explore the true the Florida Keys. The keys to Florida Keys addresses are the mile markers, small green signs with white numbers that start at MM 126 and end with MM 0 at the corner of Fleming and Whitehead streets in downtown Key West.

Key Largo--PENNEKAMP WOULD BE PROUD

Jumping-off point to the Florida Keys is Key Largo (MM 105)--42 miles south-southwest of Miami. The longest island of the Keys chain, Key Largo is the site where Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall battled both Edward G. Robinson and a hurricane in the movie of the same name. Even if a hurricane doesn't hit, Bogie's Key Largo connection can be experienced aboard the African Queen, the actual boat that Bogart skippered in the movie of the same name.

Keys underwater conservation got underway in 1960, when widespread public support laid the foundation for John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park off Key Largo, named for a late Miami newspaper editor who championed local environmental preservation. As the first underwater preserve in the United States, this refuge offers 55 varieties of delicate corals and almost 500 different species of fish for the viewing pleasure of divers and snorkelers. The land-based part of the park also features excellent hiking and camping. Operators inside and near the park offer scuba diving, snorkeling, varied boating, and other outdoors opportunities. (305) 451-1202.

Also in Key Largo, Caribbean Watersports, (305) 852-4707 or (800) 223-6728, offers interesting Zodiac enviro-tours, sailing safaris, scuba, snuba (air from the surface), snorkeling, and an additional location at Islamorada's eco-resort, Cheeca Lodge (see below). Other outdoors-oriented contacts in the Key Largo area include: Florida Bay Outfitters Kayak & Canoe Center, (305) 451-3018; the underwater hotel and marine park of Jules' Undersea Lodge and Key Largo Undersea Park, (305) 451-2353; the fascinating Florida Keys Wild Bird Rehabilitation Center, (305) 852-4486; the plant-packed Lignumvitae Key State Botanical Site, (305) 664-4815; and uninhabitated Indian Key State Historic Site, (305) 664-4815.

Further south, vistas of the Keys are dominated by emerald-green lagoons, deep-blue seas, nodding palms, rustling pines, and olive-green mangroves. White herons, roseate spoonbills, pelicans, sea gulls, ospreys, and other creatures share this paradise with visitors.

Islamorada--PRETTY IN PURPLE

Islamorada (MM 85) is the centerpiece of a group of islands known as the "purple isles"--the islands feature a heavy concentration of the stunning violet sea snail and "morada" is Spanish for purple. Known as the "Sportfishing Capital of the World," Islamorada is heralded for its angling diversity and features the Keys' largest fleet of offshore charterboats and shallow water backcountry boats.

Islamorada's centerpiece is definitely the famed Cheeca Lodge, which has made a mark in the resort world with its environmentally friendly and educational programs. Ranging from recycling and water treatment and conservation to eco-friendly menus in the dining room, the operational side of Cheeca Lodge is as progressive as any resort in the nation. But the educational component is also quite strong, with children's programs, "Environmental Do's and Don'ts" booklets in each room, an environmental symposium for the hospitality industry, an interpretive nature trail, fund-raising events for environmental organizations, and a huge Earth Day celebration. Of course, the resort's beach, dining, boating, and diving don't hurt either. (305) 664-4651 or (800) 327-2888.

Marathon--IN THE MIDDLE OF IT ALL

Marathon Key (MM 49) is the heart of the Florida Keys and is home to Crane Point Hammock, a 63.5-acre tract that is one of the most important historical and archaeological sites in the Keys. The area contains evidence of pre-Columbian and prehistoric Bahamian artifacts and was once the site of an entire Indian Village. The tropical palm forest is home to rare and unusual trees, plants, and animals and the freshwater pond features neo-tropical migratory bird species. There are also two hiking trails, a Museum of Natural History, and the Adderly Village Black Historical Site. (305) 743-9100.

The Marathon area is also the home of the Dolphin Research Center, which houses a family of dolphins in natural saltwater lagoons. Here, dolphins of all ages share their lives with visitors and people who have dedicated themselves to maintaining the best possible environment for them and all dolphins. A wide variety of programs include: educational walking tours; DolphInsight half-day education programs; a Dolphin Encounter tour, workshop, and structured swimming session; week-long Dolphinlab; an Adopt-A-Dolphin program; and the Dolphin Society. (305) 289-1121.

Other Marathon area eco-attractions include hiking, boating, and camping at Long Key State Park, (305) 664-4815, and the legendary Turtle Hospital at Hidden Harbor Motel, (305) 743-5376.

Lower Keys--HIGH EXPECTATIONS

The drive across famed Seven Mile Bridge (MM 47) at Marathon Key leads to the Lower Keys, but don't pass by the small island below the old Seven Mile Bridge. Pigeon Key once housed the workers who built Flagler's railroad in the early-1900s and, while the rest of the keys have evolved into relatively modern destinations, this tiny key has remained essentially unchanged. Step onto Pigeon Key and step back in time.

The sheer sweep of the Straits of Florida and the Gulf of Mexico is readily seen from Bahia Honda Bridge (MM 38). Bahia Honda State Park features one of the top 10 beaches in the U.S., making it easy to sample the natural atmosphere of "America's Caribbean islands." Like Pennekamp and Long Key, this state park also features hiking, camping, diving, snorkeling, and boating. (305) 872-3897.

Big Pine Key (MM 30) is noted for the Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary, (305) 872-2239, and serves as a national refuge for the endangered miniature Key deer, tropical forests, and even a few alligators. There are a wide variety of backcountry hiking and boating opportunities here. Big Pine Key is also the home of Seacamp, (305) 872-2331, a marine-oriented environmental organization that concentrates on youth educational programs, but also has an expanding list of adult programs.

Popular nature tours by kayak or larger boats offer unforgettable opportunities to view the unique fauna and flora of the Keys. Adventure travel guide and photographer Bill Keough offers a wide range of kayak touring and sailboat camping through Lost World Adventures, (305) 872-8960. He's also the co-author/photographer of The Florida Keys: Natural Wonders of an Island Paradise (Voyageur Press). Also, on Big Pine Key, Reflections Kayak Company, (305) 872-2896, offers backcountry wildlife tours, sea kayak rentals, mountain bike rentals, windsurfing, snorkeling, and lots of insider information about the area.

Key West--THE END OF THE ROAD

Finally, Key West lies at the end of the Overseas Highway. Of course, Key West features an endless array of historical attractions, quaint accommodations, creative dining, and much more. But Hemingway's town also offers excellent scuba diving, kayak touring, and other water-oriented options just offshore. Diving or snorkeling with Southpoint Divers, (305) 292-9778 or (800) 891-DIVE, and kayak touring with Mosquito Coast Adventures, (305) 294-7178, will show you a completely different side of Key West. You'll definitely work up a thirst for a cold one at Sloppy Joe's or Capt. Tony's Saloon.

Even further afield, Fort Jefferson National Monument in the Dry Tortugas offers one of America's most unique outdoors outings. This former 19th century fort, reached only by boat or seaplane, is now a protected park that features great birdwatching, diving, snorkeling, camping, and even more Florida Keys nature in abundance. (305) 242-7700.

For further information, write to the Florida Keys & Key West Visitors Bureau at P.O. Box 1147, Key West, FL 33041, U.S.A. In the U.S. and Canada, call (800) FLA KEYS. From other countries, call (305) 296-1552. Online service users can visit the Keys website at http://www.fla-keys.com.