Mobil Motorist....

BALTIMORE, MARYLAND:

A GREAT CITY IN THE LAND OF PLEASANT LIVING

Oh, say, can you see Baltimore? Francis Scott Key, of "Star-Spangled Banner" fame, saw the city and so should you. If you haven't seen Baltimore yet, plan a trip now.

Baltimore is one of America's great cities. With so much history, cultural diversity, sightseeing possibilities, and great food, it's easy to see why the city is such a popular travel destination.

Dubbed "Charm City," Baltimore is the 13th largest city in the U.S. Blessed with a natural Chesapeake Bay harbor, it lies further west than any other Atlantic port, which has endeared the harbor to shippers worldwide and ranked it fifth among U.S. ports. The port has given Baltimore a cosmopolitan feel, with clearly identified neighborhoods and a local flavor unlike most large cities.

HISTORY

Baltimore's past is as exciting as today's history-making tourism growth. The city's roots lie in the economic needs of 18th century Maryland farmers. Baltimore was established in 1729 as a convenient Chesapeake Bay port for farmers and the shipwrights and merchants that followed. The city quickly grew as the harbor prospered.

Baltimore was successfully defended during the Revolutionary War, though a British admiral had promised, "Baltimore is a doomed town." During the summer of 1814, the British attacked the city by land and sea, but were held off by the guns of Fort McHenry--the bombardment of which was commemorated in a poem by Francis Scott Key, which would become our "National Anthem."

Baltimore was not directly affected by Civil War battles and the city continued to prosper through the 20th century. However, after World War II, city residents were attracted to new housing developments beyond Baltimore's borders and many left people the downtown area. The city, which had grown consistently in population, actually began to shrink. This "suburban flight" initially depressed downtown Baltimore's economy and tourism.

However, the 70s charmed "Charm City" again. William Donald Schaefer, elected Mayor in 1971 (and, later, Governor), encouraged a redoubling of efforts from municipal, business, and volunteer groups, as well as ambitious federal programs for urban renewal.

Where dilapidated wharves and warehouses once stood, attractive hotels, office buildings, and entertainment facilities like Harborplace, the National Aquarium in Baltimore, and the Maryland Science Center now stand. Baltimoreans have also regained a sense of pride in their city, which visitors immediately sense when they inevitably start their tours around Inner Harbor.

INNER HARBOR

Baltimore revolves around the water and visitors and locals alike revolve around Inner Harbor to enjoy it. Downtown Baltimore's renaissance began in earnest in the early-1970s, with the city's redevelopment of the 240-acre Inner Harbor area. Inner Harbor has served as Baltimore's downtown magnet for locals and tourists since.

The best place to start a tour of Inner Harbor is 27 stories above it, at the Top of the World Observation Level & Museum in the World Trade Center. It provides a great overview (and view) of downtown Baltimore's attractions.

Inner Harbor's Harborplace features a cornucopia of food, fashion, and style. Two sunlit pavilions offer dining, shopping, and superb scenery. It's a great place to buy your first Baltimore souvenir, as well as sampling some fresh local seafood.

Inner Harbor also offers many sightseeing attractions right on the water. Climb aboard the decks of the United States Submarine Torsk or the U.S.F. Constellation, the oldest American warship continuously afloat. Then discover hands-on exhibits and fascinating shows in the Davis Planetarium and the five-story IMAX Theater at the Maryland Science Center.

Leave plenty of time to explore the wonders of the National Aquarium in Baltimore (many people spend an entire day there). Now one of the city's biggest attractions, the aquarium is home for more then 5,000 specimens of aquatic life. Kids, kids at heart, and even landlubbers will love the displays, exhibits, and shows like the spectacular Marine Mammal Pavilion.

ON THE WATER

It's easy to float your boat (or someone else's) in Baltimore. Water taxis, paddle boats, and other vessels make sightseeing and travel to the city's on-the-water attractions simple.

Visitors can enjoy a replica of Baltimore's famous clipper ships, working skipjacks, charter yachts, cruising vessels, and, often, majestic tall ships of the world that welcome visitors aboard for a tour or a scenic voyage. Whether you're just walking around the brick-lined promenade of Inner Harbor or you get out on the water, you'll enjoy the brightly-colored skyline of buildings and boats along Baltimore's waterfront.

A CULTURALLY CHARMED CITY

Because of Baltimore's long legacy of urban growth, the cultural scene is thriving. Gallery-goers will enjoy the Baltimore Museum of Art (noted for its Cone Collection of post-impressionist works); the Walters Art Gallery (with treasures ranging from Egyptian to modern art); the Maryland Institute of Art; and the unusual Hackerman House of Asian Art. A stroll along fashionable Charles Street, where art galleries flourish, is also an artful choice.

Music-lovers will enjoy the offerings at the Meyerhoff Symphony Hall, the Peabody Conservatory of Music, the Morris Mechanic Theater, the Lyric Opera House, the Arena Players, and Center Stage. More casual concerts can often be found at the Pier Six Concert Pavilion and the jazz-oriented Eubie Blake Cultural Center.

MUSEUM MADNESS

The museum scene in Baltimore is as rich as the city's history. There are plenty of places to step back in time to an earlier Baltimore.

Start with the Baltimore City Life Museums, featuring the homes of Declaration of Independence signer Charles Carrol and noted author H.L. Mencken, the Peale Museum, and other restored 19th century buildings. The Great Blacks in Wax Museum, the first of its kind in the nation, features such famous figures as Harriet Tubman, Thurgood Marshall, and Martin Luther King, Jr.

The birthplace of Babe Ruth commemorates the great Bambino, who was born George Herman Ruth in Baltimore in 1895. The house chronicle's the Babe's life, as well as hosting the Baltimore Orioles Museum, making it America's second largest baseball museum (behind Cooperstown). The new ballpark nearby was actually built on the site where the Babe's father once ran a saloon.

Armchair poets may want to visit the home of Edgar Allan Poe, while armchair seamstresses (and patriots) should head for the home of Mary Pickersgill, who sewed the flag that flew over Fort McHenry (leading to our "National Anthem.")

Other museums of interest include the Baltimore Maritime Museum, the Baltimore Museum of Industry, the Baltimore Streetcar Museum, and the Maryland Historical Society Museum (containing the original "Star-Spangled Banner" manuscript). Too many museum choices are enough to drive any Baltimore visitor mad.

NEIGHBORHOODS

Because Baltimore is extremely ethnically diverse, many flavorful neighborhoods have developed. The rowhouse stoops of many areas serve as great backdrops for further exploration of the melting pot that Baltimore has become.

Little Italy is one of the tastiest choices for neighborhood meanderings. Old World Italian Baltimoreans and restaurants welcome visitors from around the world. Lots of pasta and plenty of pizzaz can be found every night in Little Italy.

Nearby, Fell's Point is another popular neighborhood. This handsome maritime community, founded in the 1700s, features quaint restaurants, taverns, and accommodations in an old Baltimore style.

Charles Street has also become a neighborhood in every sense of the word. This prestigious north-south corridor nurtures much of Baltimore's cultural and elegant lifestyle scene. The 600- and 700-block area of North Charles Street features the cobblestone streets of Mount Vernon, with posh addresses, eateries, and cultural institutions.

Further afield, take in the stunning harbor views atop Federal Hill, stroll the streets of Bolton Hill just like F. Scott Fitzgerald did before you, find an old bargain in Antique Row, or explore the renovated rowhouse residences of Otterbein, perhaps the nation's most successful example of urban homesteading.

DINING

With cuisine as varied as its neighborhoods, Baltimore doesn't disappoint visitors dining out. From the freshest local seafood to dozens of ethnic eateries, the city's restaurants really cook.

Baltimore is first and foremost a crab town. Hard shell blue crabs are steamed and served throughout the city. If you've never eaten crabs before, Baltimore is the best place to try them. Some legendary crabhouses (they also serve other seafood) include: Obrycki's Crab House and Seafood Restaurant; Phillips; Gunning's Crabhouse; and Faidley's Seafood in Lexington Market.

For pasta and lots of atmosphere, head to Little Italy. The quaint atmosphere and great smells will lead you to one of many great restaurants, including Da Mimmo, Amici's, and Chiapparelli's.

Other unique options around Baltimore include dozens of dining options at Inner Harbor, the local market atmosphere in 200-year-old Lexington Market (a downtown market where delicacies are sold from stalls owned by families for generations), and the growing restaurant and bar scene around Fell's Point. You'll never go hungry in Baltimore.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Thanks to the water and a moderate climate, Baltimore is a great place to be outside. From a sailing adventure on the Chesapeake Bay to a wild adventure at the Baltimore Zoo, the great outdoors can keep visitors active.

Baltimore's outdoors is also for the birds--major league baseball's Baltimore Orioles. Many tourists head to the city just to see the Orioles play in highly-acclaimed Oriole Park at Camden Yards, a state-of-the-art baseball park with an old-fashioned ambiance.

If you're feeling lucky, head to Pimlico Race Course, home of the Preakness Stakes, the second jewel in thoroughbred racing's Triple Crown. Other great bets for the outdoors include the 176-acre Cylburn Arboretum, the blossoms of Sherwood Gardens, and many other neighborhood gardens and parks.

GETTING THERE

Baltimore is easily accessible from New York, Philadelphia, or Washington, D.C. by interstate highway. I-95 is the easiest route right downtown.

For further information about visiting Baltimore, contact the Baltimore Area Visitors Center at 300 West Pratt Street, Baltimore, MD 21201, 410/837-4636 or 800/282-6632.

W. Lynn Seldon Jr. is a full-time freelance travel writer and photographer who has completed projects for many national magazines. His most recent book, Country Roads of Maryland & Delaware, was released this summer (Country Roads Press, 800/729-9179).

SIDEBAR #1

BALTIMORE IS SO CLOSE TO SO MUCH

A trip to Baltimore makes it very easy to enjoy many other sightseeing options. It is ideally situated on the eastern seaboard, just 35 miles north of Washington, D.C. and 95 miles south of Philadelphia, making it so close to so much.

It's easy to head to our nation's capital from Baltimore. Just head straight down I-95. Contact the Washington DC Convention & Visitors Association at 1212 New York Avenue NW, Ste. 600, Washington, DC 20005, 202/789-7000.

History-rich Annapolis is the gateway to the Eastern Shore and it's a great place for a quick one-day tour or a weekend getaway. Though it's the state capital, it still has a small town feel. Contact the Annapolis & Anne Arundel County Conference & Visitors Bureau at One Anapolis Street, Annapolis, MD 21401, (410) 280-0445.

The Eastern Shore has developed into a major Maryland tourist attraction, with much scenic beauty, flavorful history, and the lure of the water. Yet, somehow, most of the region has remained a land of pleasant living (and driving). For further information about Maryland's Eastern Shore, contact the Maryland Division of Tourism and Promotion at 217 East Redwood Street, Baltimore, MD 21202, 410/333-6611.

The rest of the state west of Baltimore offers a variety of outings. The possibilities include: the C&O Canal; Antietam National Battlefield; the historic town of Frederick; the mountains of western Maryland; and much more. Contact the Maryland Division of Tourism and Promotion (see above) for further information.

SIDEBAR #2

FUN BALTIMORE FIRSTS

1772--First umbrella used in the U.S.

1774--First post office system used in the U.S.

1784--First U.S. balloon ascension.

1792--First U.S. monument to Columbus.

1814--First printing of the Star-Spangled Banner.

1828--First American umbrella factory.

1830--First railroad depot in the country.

1839--First dental college in the world.

1840--First steamboating in the U.S.

1844--First telegraph line in the U.S.

1851--First commercial ice cream factory in America.

1861--First deaths in the Civil War.

1875--First U.S. monument to Edgar Allan Poe.

1885--First commercial electric carline in the Western Hemisphere.

1893--First elevated electric railway in the country.

1895--First electric railway locomotive in the world.

1914--First municipal band in the U.S.

1928--First traffic-actuated traffic signal in the world.