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MUCH MORE THAN MERLOT
Luxury lines are wooing passengers with wine

It used to be easy to whine about the wine lists on many cruise ships, but for cruise passenger oenophiles, those whining days are over. Virtually every luxury line has upgraded, making the wine scene afloat the best it's ever been.

It doesn’t take reading the Wine Spectator or seeing the wine cult movie hit Sideways to know there’s much more than merlot to be enjoyed on land--and at sea. Luxury lines have vastly improved their wine programs either through massive wine lists and floating cellars, specific wine-oriented programs, or proprietary labels.

Wine Lists Fit for a Queen

The wine list for Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 gives a tantalizing taste of the possibilities for upscale lines. The list covers more than 300 different labels of wine, with typical wine sales coming from the constantly re-stocked 30,000-bottle cellar estimated at 150,000 bottles annually. In addition, the wine list in the ship's wine bar, Sir Samuel’s, includes more than 30 wines by the glass, an agreeable way to try world-class wines without committing to an entire bottle.

The elegant ocean liner’s chief sommelier leads a team of 30 wine stewards and conducts an average of three wine lectures each week. There are frequent wine lectures and tastings during most cruises.

Some top wines on the QM2’s list include Opus One Mondavi/Rothschild Napa Valley 1985 (US$695) or 1992 (US$565); Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1970 (US$375) or 1982 (US$1,250); Brunelo di Montalcino Riserva Altsino 1990 (US$255); and a number of “value” wines less than US$100, including the flavorful Chilean Sena Mondavi/Chadwick Aconcagua Valley 1999 (US$72).

Some luxury lines, like Radisson Seven Seas and Seabourn, offer complimentary wine from the ship’s cellar at dinner each evening. These choices aren’t generally cheap house wines, but rather mid-range bottles that go well with that night’s menu. For example, a recent cruise on the Radisson Seven Seas Navigator included complimentary 2002 Pouilly-Fuisee from Bouchard Pere et Fills, 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape from Jerome Quiot, and 2001 Niebaum-Coppola Diamond Series Claret.

Of course, premium wines are also available for an extra charge, including a 1996 Barbaresco Camp Gross for US$60 that was recommended on a recent cruise’s menu. Limited to less than three dozen select choices, the “Connoisseur’s Wine List” includes several premium champagnes, impressive French whites and reds, and several excellent California and Italian reds. There’s also an impressive “Connoisseur Club” list of ports, malt whiskies, cigars, and more.

This past fall aboard Seabourn, the luxury line added the “Vintage Seabourn” premium wine program. Passengers are offered a pre-purchase option at privileged pricing. This grants them access to a varied selection of premium wines from the well-stocked and diversified cellars of the line’s three elegant ships.

“We pour complimentary wines--and quite a nice selection of very good ones--onboard all Seabourn yachts,” notes Seabourn president Deborah L. Natansohn. “But each ship also carries a remarkable collection of rarer or more unusual wines--ones that people interested in wines might want to explore. Vintage Seabourn is our way of encouraging them to do that.”

Passengers can take part in the program at two levels. For US$150, the Vintage Seabourn Silver collection provides a menu of six premium whites and six premium reds (including a dessert wine selection), from which guests can select a total of three bottles to enjoy onboard. The Vintage Seabourn Gold program is priced at US$300 and includes all of the wines from the Silver selection and an additional four whites and four reds of higher-priced vintages--from which guests can select a total of six bottles.

Some Silver collection examples (and normal pricing) include: Domaine Laroche “Les Blanchots” (US$65), Laetitia Pinot Noir (US$66), and, for dessert, Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes (US$58). Gold selection additions might include Hanzell Alexander Valley Pinot Noir (US$80) and Chapoutier “Condrieu” Viognier (US$74).

Tastings and wine bars also offer a great way to try several wines from a ship’s wine list. For instance, Princess Cruises offers a special Maitre’d Wine Tasting for US$25, which includes a taste (bottle prices in parentheses) of Veuve Clicquot (US$50), Cuvasion Chardonnay (US$34), Caymus Vineyards Special Selection (US$132), Opus 1 (US$175), and Kenwood Jack London Cabernet Sauvignon (US$68). The line also recently introduced the new Vines wine and seafood bar aboard the Crown Princess, where wine is matched with seafood selections.

Wine Cruising

The proliferation and popularity of wine- and food-oriented theme cruises has to be one of the tastiest trends in cruise travel. Silversea’s “Wine Series” voyages are a perfect example. Cruise passengers can sample some of the world’s finest vintages while visiting world-famous wineries, cellars, and vineyards.

“Our Wine Series cruises are a great way for guests to broaden their understanding of one of life’s most cherished luxuries--fine wine,” says Barbara Muckermann, senior vice-president of worldwide marketing and communications. “We’ve invited top experts from some of the world’s most acclaimed vineyards and wineries to visit and interact with our guests, guiding them through entertaining tastings and lectures that add a unique and enriching dimension to their cruise experience.”

The expanded list of 2006 Wine Series voyages includes a Genoa to Venice sailing with Italian wine expert Mario Belardino (August 22 to September 1, starting at US$4,767 per person) and two Buenos Aires-Buenos Aires sailings (December 3-13 and December 13-23, starting at US$3,777 per person) with British wine writer, Remington Norman, author of The Great Domaines of Burgundy.

In addition, Silversea recently announced new Relais & Chateaux wine-themed restaurants for all four of the line’s ships. With a central theme of “A Celebration of Wine by Relais & Chateaux,” Silversea’s specialty restaurants (Le Champagne and Saletta) will make wine a centerpiece of the dining experience.

“The focus of these restaurants is wine appreciation and the menus will feature all-new dishes that perfectly complement the finest vintages from our Epicurean Collection,” says Albert Peter, Silversea’s chief executive officer. “Guests will enjoy a different glass of wine with each course, so this will be a great opportunity to explore some very rare and expensive wines, while only paying a nominal fee [typically around US$150, depending on the wines poured] to dine in the restaurant.”

Holland America is targeting “foodies” as well, thanks to the new Culinary Arts Center the line concocted with Food & Wine Magazine. Each cruise will offer a variety of wine- and food-oriented events, while a number of themed cruises will include renowned wine experts and guest chefs.

For something quite different, one could argue that every cruise with French Country Waterways is a wine-themed sailing. The line features four luxury hotel barges carrying just eight to 18 passengers. The leisurely six-night cruises depart on Sunday afternoons from spring to fall and ply the scenic waterways of provincial France--including Burgundy, Alsace-Lorraine, and the Upper Loire Valley.

The all-inclusive pricing system involves all meals (featuring classical cuisine and one dinner ashore at a restaurant with a high Michelin rating); an open bar, including estate-bottled wines at lunch and dinner (Grand Cru and Premier Cru at dinner); daily tours and excursions (including at least one private wine tasting); and complimentary bicycles for independent touring. Depending on the cruise chosen, winery visits might include Ployez-Jacquemart, Domaine Laroche, or Domaine Michel Brody.

Each ship typically opens three different bottles at lunch and another three at dinner, with explanations of the characteristics of each. This turns meals into an informal wine tasting. The complimentary offerings (with typical pricing) might include 1995 St. Emilion Grand Cru Chateau Vieux Pourret (US$88); 1998 Domaine Jean Raphet & Fils Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru (US$110-180); 2000 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru Domaine Dubreuil Fontaine (US$83). French Country Waterways cruises start at US$3,095 per person.

From great wine lists to private labels to wine-themed cruises, exciting wine concepts are in store on today's cruise ships.

Luxury Lines That Love Wine
*Celebrity Cruises (www.celebritycruises.com)
*Crystal Cruises (www.crystalcruises.com)
*Cunard (www.cunard.com)
*French Country Waterways (www.fcwl.com)
*Holland America (www.hollandamerica.com)
*Princess Cruises (www.princesscruises.com)
*Radisson Seven Seas Cruises (www.rssc.com)
*Seabourn (www.seabourn.com)
*Silversea Cruises (www.silversea.com)