Cruise Travel....

SHIP OF THE MONTH:
ZAANDAM
A Musical Theme Sets the Tone for Holland America Line's
Most Lyrical Grande "Dam"

Holland America Line’s ms Zaandam (the third HAL ship to bear that name) is the most lyrical ship to date for the venerable blue-hulled cruise line. A music-themed décor--highlighted by signed guitars, other such memorabilia, and music-oriented displays, plus subtle architectural touches--gives the ship a lyrical feel throughout, without being too loud in any respect. It’s as if the designers kept the musical directional term of “dolce” in mind--it’s gentle in tone from bow to stern, just like a quiet classical piece you can‘t get out of your mind.

Mid-size (by HAL standards)  at 61,396 gross registers tons and accommodating 1,432, the Zaandam first set sail in mid-2000 and is a sister to 1999's R-class Volendam (with a few minor differences in layout and public space names). She received all of the popular “Signature of Excellence” (SOE) enhancements in 2005, comprising a varierty of upscale stateroom additions, Pinnacle Grill specialty dining, Greenhouse Spa & Salon expansion, the new Exploration Café, and much more.

The Zaandam’s “grande” three-deck oval atrium opens the musical theme with a 22-foot-high pipe organ. Created by ship designers Frans Dingemans and Vincent Janssen, the unique baroque-style Dutch band organ was inspired by traditional barrel organs still found on the streets of The Netherlands. It automatically plays four times every day, with many passengers either awaiting the varied tunes or being drawn to it from other parts of the ship.

Along with the centerpiece organ, other lyrical touches include music notes in the upholstery fabrics, wall and window treatments, and some of the ship’s ceilings. Of particular note is a collection of guitars signed by the likes of Keith Richards, Eric Clapton, Carlos Santana, B.B. King, and many others (three of these guitars are somewhat hard to locate; they’re in a hallway near the lower entrance to the Rotterdam Dining Room). Even some door handles and glass doors continue the musical theme, as does some of the ship’s artwork. However, the musical theme of the Zaandam was definitely done with typical HAL understatement.

The artwork and artifacts aboard the ship carry a value of more than $2 million, including antiques, paintings, prints, and photography centered around a theme of Dutch (and HAL) seafaring exploration and cruise travel (the black-and-white photography of the line's early cruise ships is especially well-developed). The Zaandam also exhibits works created specifically for the vessel by world-class artists, as well as a collection of Egyptian artwork permanently displayed in the Art Gallery on deck four.

The public spaces of the Zaandam are especially well-situated and varied in style. Most of the lounges, shops, and other public rooms are located on decks four and five (which also house the two-level Rotterdam Dining Room aft).

Upper Promenade Deck (five) is especially efficient when it comes to varied public spaces. Explorations Café (“Powered by The New York Times”) is one of many SOE enhancements. This popular and large public space offers passengers the opportunity to enjoy a wide variety of coffee drinks (at below-Starbucks prices), browse one of the most extensive lending libraries at sea (including DVDs for in-cabin viewing), enjoy diverse music at several comfortable listening stations, or surf the internet (including free access to www.NYTimes.com).

The space feels like a floating combination of Barnes & Noble and Starbucks outlets, including the white noise of the espresso machines--but adding the occasional distant sounds of slot machines in the Casino. Be sure to look for the picture of the ship’s co-godmothers, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen (many felt the choice of the young celebrity twins a bit out of tune with the ship's style).

Explorer’s Lounge is across from Explorations Café and (along with the Crow’s Nest) is one of the ship’s larger lounges. Thanks to its location near the Rotterdam Dining Room, this lounge is especially popular for pre-dinner cocktails (and live classical music); small musical touches include a statue of Puccini, along with a signed print nearby. The adjacent Piano Bar is among the most intimate spots on the ship (except during occasional sing-alongs). Nearby, the sometimes smoky Casino Bar features a large-screen TV (flanked by two large ship models) that occasionally makes for an informal sports bar during televised sporting events. The Casino proper is the right size for this ship’s typical demographic makeup.

Across from the Casino, one of three Upper Promenade shops offers typical clothing, perfume, jewelry, and the like. Farther forward, the other two shops offer sundries and HAL-logoed merchandise (“dam ships“ items are quite popular these days).

And across from these two shops, the Ocean Bar is another popular pre-dinner or -show choice, though it‘s also a bit narrow for much passenger traffic during these times.

Finally, all the way forward, the Mondriaan Lounge is a two-level room offering Las Vegas- and Broadway-style revues and a variety of entertainment (including special guests, like vocalists, pianists, magicians, and comedians). This is also the location for many other events on the ship where large crowds are anticipated (including the popular Explorations Speaker Series on cruises of 10 days or longer). The lounge glitters with bright white, gray, and silver décor, with somewhat darker furniture providing contrast (the tables feature lamps with miniature musical instruments). There’s a revolving stage that’s frequently used in the larger productions, plus a confetti cannon effect system and a moving light system. Deck five also includes several smaller rooms that host cards and other game, as well as bridge lectures, group meetings, or small events--and each one features ocean views, rather than the four walls often offered for these types of rooms at sea.

Down on the Promenade Deck (four) which houses part of the Mondriaan Lounge, a few more convenient public spaces await. Along with the Photo Gallery and the Art Gallery (both typical examples), the Wajang Theater is the spot for frequent first-run movies (complete with freshly popped popcorn). This is also the site of the new Culinary Arts Center (sponsored by Food & Wine Magazine). This groundbreaking addition to the ship features a complete on-stage kitchen as the location for chef presentations, cooking demonstrations, and even participatory cooking classes (where you receive an apron and chef‘s toque). The complimentary demonstrations are typically standing-room-only and the cooking classes ($29) are normally sold out.

The public spaces continue up on the Lido Deck (eight). Forward, the completely redone Greenhouse Spa & Salon has a resort spa feel. Highlights include a new relaxation room, a couples treatment room, several ocean-view massage rooms, and a sprawling Thermal Room that includes an ocean-view hot tub, a private sun deck, two steam rooms, and stunning tile lounge chairs (it‘s available by appointment only and there‘s an additional charge). And the fitness center has been newly expanded with state-of-the-art exercise equipment and an array of fitness classes.

Heading aft, the Lido Pool is the first of two. Unique features include a retractable Magradome ceiling (open during warm and sunny days), a bronze sculpture of leaping dolphins by British artist Susanna Holt, two hot tubs, and the bustling Lido Bar that has the feel of a tropical café. At the stern, the Sea View Pool has two colorful “cow” sculptures and the small open-air Sea View Bar ,(opular during days and evenings at sea.

Sports Deck (nine) forward features the Crow’s Nest, a lounge with wide ocean views, evening hors d’oeuvres and cocktails, entertainment, and occasional dancing. The Crow’s Nest also becomes an after-dinner “disco/nightclub,” which didn't seem to draw many passengers on our cruise. Amidship on deck nine are a small jogging track and two sports courts that can accommodate volleyball, “miniature” tennis, basketball, and shuffleboard. Though not shown on some deck plans, topmost Sky Deck (ten), located above the Crow's Nest, also has a fair number of lounge chairs and, typically, not too many passengers.

Aft on deck nine, the expanded Club HAL area is targeted at the ever-growing number of under-18 passengers on certain Zaandam sailings. Kids three to eight enjoy arts and crafts, watch a big-screen TV, and have a colorful play area at their disposal. Those ages nine to 12 (called “Tweens”) have an area featuring arcade games, air hockey, foosball, karaoke, internet, and Sony Playstations. Teens ages 13 to 18 get to enjoy The Loft, which is a teens-only “lounge” with music and internet access. This connects to The Oasis up on deck 10, an incredibly colorful, unique space that includes a secluded sun deck, lots of Adironkack chairs, and even a waterfall; it’s definitely been a hit with the teen set.

Dining is varied in style of food and setting, without being overwhelming. It starts with the two-level Rotterdam Dining Room, where SOE additions include four staggered dinner seating times (rather than two), all-white table linens, and elegant new main course plates. Menus are much more creative than HAL choices from just five years ago, including interesting appetizers (like foie gras), varied salads (much more than iceberg), and mouth-watering entrees (plus standby chicken, steak, and more available every night). The atmosphere (from the grand chandeliers to the sparkling lit ceiling) is subdued, on rare occasions enlivened by the noise of special celebrations. A player piano enhances the mood with a soft musical background on most nights, with formal evenings bringing live classical music (and at least one night featuring tables and chairs formally dressed in white linens). On most days at sea, the Rotterdam Dining Room offers a traditional afternoon tea that‘s popular with HAL veterans.

The sprawling Lido Restaurant straddling both midship sides of deck eight provides typical (and some rather inventive) options for breakfast and lunch. Due to its size and generally long operating hours, the restaurant rarely feels too busy in lines or in searches for tables. There’s also a creative late-afternoon sandwich bar, as well as extended offerings of pizzas, salads, burgers, and more. On most evenings, half of the restaurant is transformed into a casual dining option that includes tablecloths, made-to-order entrees, and table-side waiter service (an option many passengers seem to appreciate).

The Pinnacle Grill is the third main dining option--and a popular one, for good reason. Another SOE addition, this specialty restaurant is an extra charge/ reservations-only gourmet getaway with Northwest-themed cuisine (and wine choices). A collection of 17th century food-themed still-life paintings enhance the art on the table--including Bulgari china, Riedel stemware, interesting appetizers (like a smoked seafood trio), delicious and perfectly prepared steaks, lamb, and other entrees, and dessert options like a crème brulee trio of three different flavors--it is highly recommended for dinner ($20) at least once during a cruise. Those who really enjoy creative food and wine will also want to book a delicious Pinnacle Grill lunch ($10) on a sea day. Also recommended is the dining room's intimate premium wine tasting ($29), including a tasting plate of Pinnacle Grill menu items.

Though the dining and public spaces definitely provide a lyrical cruise experience, the size and new SOE amenities make the staterooms another enjoyable part of the onboard ambiance. SOE additions included the new Mariner Dream Bed (with a premium plush Euro-top mattress and high-quality bed linens); new, large fluffy towels and bathrobes; a complimentary (and replenished) fresh fruit basket; and flat-screen TV with DVD player. The suites also have fully-stocked mini-bars; DVD players and access to a DVD library; personalized stationary; and use of the exclusive and spacious Neptune Lounge (including a concierge, breakfast pastries, afternoon snacks, evening hors d’oeuvres, and lots of seating for TV viewing or reading the supplied newspapers and magazines).

There are five decks of passenger cabins with, generally speaking, those without balconies on decks one through three and those with balconies on decks six and seven. Most inside cabins are on lower decks, though there are a few on the upper passenger levels. Note: those who don’t like seeing strolling passengers outside their cabin or needing to close their curtains at night to impede wandering eyes may want to avoid the cabins on deck three, overlook the traditional--and popular--promenade (signs say the teakwood, full-circle promenade is a quarter-mile around, and it is wide enough to be filled with deck chairs yet still be a great place for fitness walking or an after-dinner sea-air stroll.

The large outside doubles (without balconies) are among the largest afloat and highly recommended at a good price point. Only slightly smaller than the outside doubles, even the inside doubles feel quite spacious. The verandah suites are also typically a very good deal for the space, while the deluxe verandah suites and sole penthouse verandah suite are only for the splurge-minded.

From the cabins to the cuisine to all of the Signature of Excellence additions, the Zaandam is an appropriately lyrical addition to the Holland America fleet--and despite the guitars, more classical than rock and roll.