Porthole....

SHORE-X: DINING A DEUX

Romance rules on Mediterranean shores and a shore excursion
is a great way to enjoy some alone time

When it comes to romance, we love everything about Mediterranean ports of call. From Portugal to Turkey and lots of far-flung destinations along craggy coastlines and islands in between, there’s always a romantic shore excursion for two at virtually every Med port.

One of our all-time favorite romantic Mediterranean shore excursions is easy to arrange on practically any cruise that calls on Naples. From this bustling and quintessentially southern Italian city, a private drive down the stunning Amalfi coast to Positano and Amalfi--including a leisurely Italian-inspired lunch along the way--is definitely the way to go.

While most lines offer standard shore excursions by bus for the Amalfi coast, it’s also simple for ship personnel to arrange an English-speaking driver to make the day much more romantic (and perfectly private). Though it’s certainly more expensive (not as much as one might think), we think the flexibility and personalized nature make it well worth the extra cost.

UNESCO declared the Amalfi Coast a World Heritage site in 1997, thanks to its natural beauty, preserved buildings and villages, and significance in human history. Since first visiting this area off a cruise ship, we’ve always declared it one of the most romantic sites on earth. Now, that’s amore!

Arrivederci to Naples

We have nothing against Naples (or nearby historic Pompeii), but the noisy traffic isn’t exactly romantic. It’s hard to believe that honking horns and rushing people around the Piazzale Stazione Maritima and beyond will soon be replaced by lapping seas and stunning coastal views.

Depending on our arrival time into the port, we have been known to ask the driver to swing by one of the city’s famed pizzerias for a slice or two (washed down with some local wine, since someone else is doing the driving). The local driver will likely have an opinion, but our four favorite slices of Naples include those at Da Michele, Trianon, Di Matteo, and Antica Pizzeria Brandi. The two classic pizzas here are marinara (tomatoes, garlic, oregano, and olive oil) and Margherita (tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, basil, and mozzarella), which was supposedly invented at Brandi in 1889 in honor of Queen Margherita.

Heading to Positano

The road runs along the Gulf of Naples and in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, passing the turn-off for Pompeii before heading to the Gulf of Salerno and a town we love--Positano. The drive quickly becomes classically Amalfi Coast-- romantic, with lush mountains and valleys running down to isolated coastline featuring the beautiful greens and blues of the Mediterranean coast. Though it’s become quite popular with tourists (especially in summer) this classic Amalfi town retains its charm with drop-dead views, Italian-style shopping, and a variety of romantic restaurants.

While here, we love to stroll along the beach promenade or head inland along narrow cobblestone streets in search of small shops selling local products (olive oil and picnic items are two favorites). If we’re not buying for a picnic later along the coast, Positano features several restaurants exuding Italian romance, charm, and wonderful views. The drivers we’ve had in the past always had a favorite eatery and knew the owner. If time allows, the town of Ravello sits above Positano. Here, there are jaw-dropping views from the “Terrace of Infinity” at Villa Cimbrone.

Amalfi or Bust

Next, the coastal road continues to the actual town of Amalfi. We’ve found that tiny towns like Praiano or Vettica Minore make for tranquil stops along the way, where small beaches, shops, restaurants, and friendly people await.

Once one of the four major maritime republics of medieval Italy, Amalfi is now a major tourist destination that has retained its romantic charm. There’s a stunning cathedral and, if we brought our suits, the Grotto dello Smeraldo, which we think is as good as the Blue Grotto on Capri. The much quieter town of Atrani is just to the west, where Le Arcate at the western end of the beach features great water and mountain views as well as the local specialty of pizza with smoked mozzarella.

From here, depending on the time, the driver typically takes us back along the coast on S163, with stops for more pictures and maybe a snack at one of many roadside shops and fruit stands along the way. Though the honking horns when approaching Naples are a rude awakening, the quiet and romantic Amalfi Coast always remains foremost in our memories.

More Romantic Med Meanderings

The possibilities for romantic shore excursions in the Mediterranean are infinite. Through services like The Regent Seven Seas Cruises' Travel Concierge, Seabourn Cuise Line’s Signature Service Desk, Crystal Cruises’ Extreme Luxury, and practically every ship’s shore excursion desk, it’s easy to arrange intimate outings for two. For instance, Celebrity Cruises and Azamara Cruises can arrange private tours in 95 percent of the ports they visit. The following are just a few of the ones we’ve either enjoyed or plan on pursuing soon:

*Though a short gondola ride in a crowded Venice canal with a quick song and dozens of other tourists is anything but romantic, it’s actually quite easy to arrange a more intimate gondola tour for two. We especially like one of the evening offerings, thanks to many ships that now overnight in this quintessential Italian town.

*Though it’s not limited to just one couple, Norwegian Cruise Line's Romeo & Juliet’s Verona (out of Venice) is certainly still fun for those who like their romance by the book. Verona’s history of feuding gave rise to Shakespeare’s classic play, with the modern tour including a romantic lunch and a view of Juliet’s home, courtyard, and famed balcony from which she listened to Romeo’s professions of love.

*In Turkey, Windstar Cruises offers “Romantic Bodrum: A Gulet Ride for Two.” Limited to two guests, this all-day sailing adventure is aboard a 45-foot gulet, a wooden sailing vessel indigenous to the area. Personalized service, swimming in quiet coves, and dining on local specialties while sipping chilled white wine are among the highlights.

*Though cyclists may start out in a group, couples can typically go on their own during a biking shore excursion. SeaDream Yacht Club and other lines feature rides through the Croatian countryside out of Dubrovnik, including vineyards and local foods.

*Through Seabourn’s Signature Service Desk, a private car can pick up a couple in Nice or Cannes for the scenic drive up to a famed Grasse perfumerie--where they can custom-design their own “just-for-us” scent from the myriad essences and fragrances.

*Crystal’s Extreme Luxury shore excursions in the Med can be especially romantic for couples who like to drive or just go along for the ride. The possibilities include racing through Italy in a private Ferrari, following a guide through the Umbrian countryside or the winding roads of Livorno and Tuscany (including lunch at a five-star restaurant), or motoring along the French Riviera in a Maserati, Lamborghini, or Ferrari 612 Scaglietta.

*Enjoy a romantic lunch for two with Princess Cruises' Greek Cooking Lessons in Corfu. You and your sweetheart will visit a Corfu restaurant and sample ouzo, feta cheese, and olives as you learn to prepare a number of Greek dishes. Then sit down to this traditional feast accompanied by wine, fruit, and coffee.