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GOING GREENLAND
This Arctic destination is a growing hot spot for adventurous tourists

Flying in the jet streams of recently popular spots like Asia, Alaska, and Antarctica, Greenland seemss destined to become the next must-see for travelers who simply have to get to the world’s most interesting places. With an unusual history and culture and a diverse landscape--yes, Greenland is green--Greenland is white-hot with visitors in-the-know.

Demographically Speaking

Part of the Danish realm but, as of June this year, self-governed, Greenland was “discovered” by Norway’s Erik the Red after he was exiled from Iceland in 982. In what must have been one of tourism’s earliest marketing campaigns, he named it “Graenland” with the hope of enticing more settlers to the island.

While 80 percent of Greenland’s surface is covered by ice, the southern and western coasts are quite green, and this is where many of those who followed in Erik the Red’s wake would settle. But history shows that the Inuit beat the Vikings to this vast, lush, and stark landscape by about 4,500 years . Their cultures still greatly influence Greenland today.

Modern global warming is most definitely changing Greenland’s landscape. Though it will likely take decades or centuries to realize all of the potential changes, the ice cap is melting more quickly than in the past--but more open waters have led to new fishing, boating, and tourism possibilities.

And there's plenty of room for visitors--Greenland is huge. It’s the world’s largest island at roughly three times the size of Texas. The ice-free area alone is about the same size as Germany. Generally speaking, no roads connect Greenland’s towns--locals and visitors get around by helicopter, plane, and boat.

Greenland is often cold, but sometimes quite warm. Average temperatures in the typical southern tourist destinations range between 40F and 55F during the summer months and -5F to 15F during the winter. Because of the availability of more diverse outdoor activities, most visitors head to Greenland from late spring to early fall.

Though the country is technically and geographically part of the North American continent--it‘s just 16 miles from Canada at one location--Greenland is historically and culturally Inuit, while heavily influenced by Scandinavian tradition. Still a part of Denmark, Greenland's currency is the Danish krone. The official languages are Greenlandic and Danish, but most of the friendly inhabitants are also fluent in English. Today, about 57,000 people live in Greenland (including around 16,000 in the capital city of Nuuk).

Southern Charms

Located in the southwest, Nuuk is Greenland’s largest and most diverse city. It’s home to the Greenland National Museum, the University of Greenland, the Nuuk Kunstmuseum of Historic and Modern Art, a stunning cliff-top statue of Hans Egade (the missionary founder of what would become Nuuk), and thriving culinary and music scenes (Nuuk’s many restaurants and bars are a great place to meet locals). The city is often the jumping-off point for adventures further afield, including a popular excursion into ice-filled Godthabs Fjord and  to the Equip Sermia Glacier.

Situated north of Nuuk, the town of Ilulissat is one of the most-visited island spots. Spectacular glacier views at the mouth of a icy fjord that typically produces 20 million tons of ice daily draws visitors, as do a wide range of popular mild-to-wild Greenlandic adventures such as hiking; kayaking (the kayak was invented in Greenland); whale, musk ox, and other wildlife safaris; and cold-weather options such as snowmobiling, skiing, and dog sledding. The island has more than 29,000 sled dogs, and dogsleds have the right of way.

Also in the south, Narsarsuaq is popular with the outdoors set. Once a large U.S. airbase, the airport now welcomes lots of visitors in search of easy access inland ice to hike and boat or helicopter tours featuring dramatic calving glaciers.

Just 15 minutes by boat, the pretty fjord-side village of Qassiarsuk features truly special Norse ruins called Brattahlid, where Erik the Red established his Greenland homestead. Highlights include ruins, an Inuit turf hut, a turf-covered reconstructed longhouse, and a reconstruction of the Vikings' original church.

Also in the south, colorful Narsaq is a classic Greenland destination. woth a stop here is a helpful tourist office, the excellent Narsaq Museum; Lund Cottage (home of Henrik Lund, composer of Greenland’s national anthem); varied hotels and restaurants; nearby hiking with great views; and a range of outdoor activities out on the water (the kayaking is world-renowned here).

Qaqortoq, southern Greenland's largest town, has a great little town square, the Qaqortoq Museum (Charles Lindbergh stayed in the “blue room”), a pretty church that was prefabricated in Norway in 1826, and a tannery. Around town are unusual Stone and Man sculptures, initially begun by local artist Aka Hoegh. Now, international artists come to Qaqortoq to carve the rocks and stones around town.

Outside Qaqortoq are the Hvalsey Ruins. More intact than any other Norse ruins in Greenland, the site includes a church, a great hall, circular horse fold enclosure, and a grave thought to be that of Thorkel Farserk, a relative and follower of Erik the Red.

North of Nuuk and Beyond

North of Nuuk, Kangerlussuaq is the hub for international flights arriving in Greenland. Nearby, dramatic views of the polar icecap and lots of wildlife often make for an appropriately stunning introduction to the country.

Many visitors find the food is a major part of the Greenland experience. Fresh seafood is obviously important--prawns, scallops, halibut, salmon, trout, snow crab, and more--but land-based agriculture has become just as important. Greenland’s lamb is simply some of the best in the world, while local delicacies such as musk ox and reindeer often can be found on menus (friendly restaurant owners and locals are often happy to let visitors try a bite). Of course, whale and seal are historically a major part of a Greenlander’s diet, too--adventurous diners should definitely try both.

Like Alaska, China, and Antarctica, the cruise industry has found Greenland an ideal cruise ship destination as well. Though it’s hard to beat taking a small plane, helicopter, or boat like the locals to visit Greenland's many highlights, a cruise does provide a great overview. Norway’s Hurtigruten line's Fram is a popular option, while many other lines feature itineraries that typically include Greenland in an itinerary with Scandinavia, Iceland, northeast Canada and more.

Though multiple flights are required to get to Greenland, the country is well worth the journey. For more information, visit www.greenland.com. For trip-planning assistance, contact your AAA Travel agent or visit AAA.com/travel.

Iceland is Green

A stopover in Iceland on the way to or from Greenland has become more and more popular--and convenient. The cosmopolitan capital city of Reykjavik provides a complete contrast to anywhere in Greenland, while nearby outdoors-oriented excursions--including the famed Blue Lagoon, waterfalls, geysers, and more--make for an easy add-on combination. For information, visit www.goiceland.org.